WEBVTT 00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:04.770 align:middle line:90% 00:00:04.770 --> 00:00:07.650 align:middle line:84% "River water moves through waves, 00:00:07.650 --> 00:00:11.310 align:middle line:84% but ocean waves move through water. 00:00:11.310 --> 00:00:14.820 align:middle line:90% A river wave is a misnomer. 00:00:14.820 --> 00:00:18.420 align:middle line:84% River water is in motion, but the wave is not. 00:00:18.420 --> 00:00:22.200 align:middle line:84% Obeying gravity, a river and whatever it carries suspended-- 00:00:22.200 --> 00:00:25.980 align:middle line:84% silt and sand, pebbles, leaves and sticks-- 00:00:25.980 --> 00:00:30.390 align:middle line:84% flows over dislodged rocks and upended logs, 00:00:30.390 --> 00:00:35.010 align:middle line:84% obstacles that once sheathed give the appearance of waves, 00:00:35.010 --> 00:00:38.670 align:middle line:84% adopting the shape of the ground beneath. 00:00:38.670 --> 00:00:40.620 align:middle line:84% Ocean waves give the appearance of water 00:00:40.620 --> 00:00:43.990 align:middle line:84% progressively traveling from one point to another. 00:00:43.990 --> 00:00:47.640 align:middle line:84% But in an ideal wave, water follows a circular path 00:00:47.640 --> 00:00:51.450 align:middle line:84% in a vertical plane, rising as the crest approaches 00:00:51.450 --> 00:00:55.050 align:middle line:90% and falling as it passes. 00:00:55.050 --> 00:00:59.560 align:middle line:84% Picture an orange snatched by the tide. 00:00:59.560 --> 00:01:02.570 align:middle line:84% It zigzags along the shore, rolling in and out, 00:01:02.570 --> 00:01:05.950 align:middle line:84% in and out, until someone picks it up and throws it 00:01:05.950 --> 00:01:08.160 align:middle line:90% past the break. 00:01:08.160 --> 00:01:11.400 align:middle line:84% There, it will bob up and down, tirelessly, 00:01:11.400 --> 00:01:15.530 align:middle line:84% without traveling far from where it first landed. 00:01:15.530 --> 00:01:18.860 align:middle line:84% Once in Hawaii after a heavy storm, 00:01:18.860 --> 00:01:21.830 align:middle line:84% you watched rainwater carve a riverbed from the heights 00:01:21.830 --> 00:01:24.710 align:middle line:90% of a volcano to the beach. 00:01:24.710 --> 00:01:27.590 align:middle line:84% Morgan wants to know, a provisional river. 00:01:27.590 --> 00:01:31.120 align:middle line:84% Yes, the way a flooded street is."